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重访乌兹别克斯坦“丝绸之路” WSJE(11/16) Step Out on the Sil

更新时间:2012-11-28    来源/发布:www.en369.cn    作者/编辑:英语作文网

In the courtyard of the Samarkand Bukhara Silk Carpets Workshop on the outskirts of Samarkand─the second-largest city in Uzbekistan─bundles of deep red silk, colored by madder root, lie drying in the late summer sun. The contents of black caldrons bubble over fires and the smell of simmering shurpa (or shorpa)─a chickpea, lamb and vegetable soup─fills the air.
在乌兹别克斯坦第二大城市撒马尔罕(Samarkand)郊区的撒马尔罕布哈拉真丝地毯作坊(Samarkand Bukhara Silk Carpets Workshop)的院子中,一捆捆用茜草根染色的深红色丝绸被平放在夏末的阳光下晒干。黑色大锅中的食物在火上咕嘟咕嘟地冒着泡,空气中弥漫着炖杂烩汤(以鹰嘴豆、羊肉和蔬菜为原料)的香味。
Inside the workshop, carpets slowly grow on large, ocher-colored looms. The manager, Abdullah Badghisi, points to one: Indigo blue and asparagus green hues are woven to spell out, in Persian, lines by the Uzbek poet Ali-Shir Nava'i. This particular carpet is destined for a Middle Eastern emir. Two young women work intensely on a splendid red-and-black copy of a central Turkmen, mid-19th-century rug. It is a Salor Ensi (or Engsi), a doormat made up of geometric patterns, for a client in the U.S. A chili hangs from the loom to ward off evil spirits.
在作坊内,一张张地毯在赭色的织机上缓缓织出。作坊的经理阿卜杜拉•巴德吉斯(Abdullah Badghisi)指给我看其中一张地毯,这张别致的地毯以靛蓝和芦笋绿的颜色交织拼出乌兹别克斯坦诗人艾利希尔•纳瓦依(Ali-Shir Nava'i)的波斯文诗句,是为中东的一位埃米尔定做的。两名年轻女子正聚精会神地织着一张19世纪中期土库曼中部地毯的仿品,这张黑红两色的由几何图案构成的地毯是为一位美国客户定制的门垫。织机上还挂着一个辣椒以驱挡妖邪。


'This one,' says Mr. Badghisi, pointing to a green carpet with a geometric design, 'is similar to one Hillary Clinton had made here.' The attention to detail is painstaking, with carpets taking up to two years to make and costing as much as $30,000 ( 24,000).
巴德吉斯指着一张几何图案的绿色地毯说道:“这一张与希拉里•克林顿(Hillary Clinton)在我们这儿定制的一张地毯相似。”对细节的关注极其费神,有些地毯要花两年时间才能织成,花费高达30,000美元。
Carpet making is one of this Central Asian country's most ancient industries. However, there is one that is older still: silk. And it is at the Silk Road sites of Samarkand and Bukhara that one can find items to buy, or commission, that are unique. As part of the Silk Route, the traditions of ikat (a type of silk dyeing similar to tie-dye) and suzanis (embroidered decorative textiles traditionally given to women on their wedding day) flourished and are still thriving today.
织毯业是这个中亚国家最古老的产业之一,不过还有一个产业更为古老──丝绸业。在昔日位处丝绸之路的撒马尔罕与布哈拉(Bukhara),人们可以找到可直接购买成品或委托定制的独特的丝绸制品。作为丝绸之路传统的一部分,制作伊卡特(ikat,一种采用与扎染类似的方法染色的丝绸)与刺绣(suzani,传统上在女性婚礼当天送给她的装饰性刺绣品)的传统非常兴盛,时至今日依然非常繁荣。
Reaching the country to enjoy all this artisanship is, however, not always straightforward. Visas can take up to two months to organize, and it is far easier, if you aren't traveling independently and with time on your hands, to go through a tour company that can help cut the visa application process to a couple of weeks, as well as manage your itinerary. Once there, one is well-rewarded with near-empty sites, open-armed hospitality and, as far as this trip was concerned, no hassle anywhere.

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